1876: Descripción de los puertos de Bolivia (I)

The Coasts of Chile, Bolivia, and Peru Compiled by The United States Hidrographic Office (1876)

ADVERTISEMENT.
The basis of these directions and the description of the coasts of Chile, Bolivia, and Perú have been the works of Capt. F. Chardonneau, of the French navy, and of Capt. Aurelio García y García, of the Peruvian navy, Les Instructions nautiques sur les Côtes du Chile et de la Bolivie and El Derrotero de la Costa del Perú. In the compilation, extracts have been made from the Surveys on the Coast of Chile, by Captains Simpson and Gormaz, of the Chilean navy; from Notices of the Examination of the Coast of Chile, now in progress, under the direction of Lientenant Uribe, Chilean navy; from El Anuario Hydrografico de Chile; the British Admiralty South America Pilot; the American Cyclopaedia, and the remark books of officers of the U. S. Navy, together with the most recent British Admiralty, French, and Chilean charts, notices, &C.

R. H. W.

U. S. HIDROGRAPHIC OFFICE,
Washington D. C.

(NOTE. All courses and bearings are true, unless otherwise stated/ The distances are expressed in nautical miles./ The longitudes are from the meridian of Greenwich.)


[...]

THE COAST OF CHILE, FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO THE BOUNDARY OF BOLIVIA, WITH THE OFF-LYING ISLANDS.
　
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.

The republic of Chile is boarded on the north by Bolivia ; the 24th parallel of south latitude, which is seven miles to the southward of cape Jara, is the dividing line between these two states from the Pacific coast to the Andes. The tract of land comprised between the 23d and 24th parallels is in fact considered neutral territory*, The boundary line then follows the crest of the Andes to the Rio Negro, and thence the course of this river to the Atlantic ocean ; these two natural boundaries separate this country from the Argentine Republic.

Chile claims the whole of Patagonia, though the Argentine Republic contests a portion of it, and by establishing a settlement at Punta Arenas in the strait of Magellan, Chile** pretended to secure the entire possession, and a protest filed by the consul-general of Chile at London in 1872 clearly established this claim.

These directions will treat only of that portion of the Chilian coast comprised between cape Tres-Montes and the river Loa.

In 1872 the population of Chile was about two millions.

The capital is Santiago.

The provinces on the coast, commencing at the north, are as follows : Atacama, Coquimbo, Aconcagua, Valparaiso, Maule and Colchagua, Concepcion, Valdivia, Llanquihue, Chiloé, Magallanes.

*This tract, which comprises the desert of Atacama, was considered without value. Since the discoveries of mines of precious metals and of copper, numerous difficulties have arisen between these two conntries, broaght about by the explorers of this territory.
** According to Malina, the word Chile or Tchili is derived from the cry of a thrush which is very common in this country. 

The maritime governors of these provinces reside as follows : of Atacama, at Caldera ; there are subdelegates at Sarco, Peña Blanca, Huasco, Carrizel-Bajo, Chañaral, Pan de Azúcar, Taltal, and Paposo; of Coquimbo, at Coquimbo; subdelegates at Guyacan, Tongoy, and Totoralillo; of Aconcagua, at Papudo; subdelegates at los Vilos and Pichidanqui; of Valparaiso, at Valparaiso; subdelegate at San Antonio ; of Maule and Colchagna, at Constitucion ; subdelegates at Llico, and Buchupureo, and at Curanipe ; of Conception, at Talcahuano; subdelegates at Tomé, Coronel, Lota, and Lebu ; of Valdivia, at Corral ; a subdelegateat Queule; of Llanquihue, the maritime governor resides at Puerto Montt,*a subdelegate at Calbuco; of Chiloé, at Ancud, a subdelegate at Melinkat (Guaiteca Grande); of Magallanes, the governor resides at Punta Arenas.

Chile to the Rio Maule was part of the empire of the Incas. Diego Almagro, the lieutenant of Pizarro, first led the Spaniards to this country in 1535. It was conquered by Pedro de Valdivia during the years 1541 to 1554, he having laid the foundation of Santiago in December, 1540; of Séréna in 1543, of Valparaiso and Penco (old Concepcion) in 1550, and of Imperial and Valdivia in 1552. He commenced the struggle against the Araucanians, who, after many conflicts, captured him and put him to death in 1559.

For two centuries and a half the history of Chile is full of the events of this struggle. During this period the Araucanians defended their independence, and often with success. All the cities of the southern part of Chile were frequently destroyed by them, notably during the period from 1599 to 1604, and all excepting Imperial were obstinately rebuilt by the Spaniards. They were often forced to treat with the Araucanians and to observe the treaties.

The Spaniards were also several times disturbed in their possession by the English buccaneers. Drake plundered Valparaiso in 1578, Hawkins ravaged Chile in 1594, Narborough in 1668, Sharp in 1680. The Hollanders also plundered the coasts of Concepcion, Valdivia, and Chiloé in 1600, 1615, and 1643. The selfish policy of the Spanish government produced the same effect in Chile as in its other colonies. Profiting by the revolution of 1808, the Chilians made their first efforts toward separation in 1810, but with very little success. General San Martin, of Buenos Ayres, aided by Argentine troops and the remainder of the independent party, defeated the Spaniards at Chacabuco; on the 15th of February, 1817, took possession of Santiago, and by the victory of Maipo, April 5, 1818, assured the independence of Chile, although the war was continued until 1822. Valdivia was held by the Spaniards until 1820, when it was captured by the English Admiral Cochrane, who had formed a Chilian navy, placing himself at its head. Chiloé was finally incorporated in the republic in 1826. The re-public then gave its assistance to all the other Spanish colonies, especially to Perú, in their struggles against the mother country.

After the declaration of independence, Chile, like its sister South American republics, was rent by civil discord until 1830. The radicals, who had Pinto and Freire for their chiefs and generals, battled against the conservatives, who were led by O'Higgins and Prieto. The latter finally triumphed in the battle of Lircay, the 17th of August, 1830, and instituted the conservative progressive form of government which gave to Chile forty years of almost uninterrupted prosperity. The country became settled little by little, and owing to the wisdom of the inhabitants the revolutions were superseded by a peaceful constitution.
President Prieto, who was elected in 1832, and supported by a true statesman, Portales, was reelected in 1836. General Bulnes, also twice president, 1841 to 1851, had a tranquil administration, bat after his term of office was called to suppress a serious insurrection caused by the radicals. He then became the commandant of the troops raised by President Montt, who had succeeded him in 1851, and was reelected in 1856. During his second presidency he had to struggle against a combination formed by the radicals and ultraconservatives. He was successful, and transmitted his office peaceably to Perez in 1861, who continued in office until 1871. Under his administration the most important event was the war against Spain, in which this republic had Perú, Bolivia, and Equador for its allies. The principal incidents of this war were the capture of the Spanish steamer la Covadonga by the Chilian corvette Esmeralda, the blockade and bombardment of Valparaiso in 1865, and the undecided battle of Abtao between two Spanish frigates and the Chilian squadron. Perez transmitted his charge to Errazuriz in 1871.

[...]

The coast of Chile, which is washed by the Pacific, inclines gradually to the eastward from Valdivia to the Loa, which is the eastern point of the west coast of South America. It has numerous indentations, which are protected from the southward by promontories, but open to northward. After leaving the archipelago of Chiloé and Chonos, where many sheltered bights are found, there are only two or three bays on the entire coast to Bolivia which offer the double advantage of protection both from the north and south.
[...]




Durante el siglo XIX parece haber proliferado la elaboración de mapas de Sudamérica con una delimitación más o menos libre de las fronteras entre países. Si embargo, por más arbitrarios que aquellos cartógrafos y sus predecesores hayan sido, todos reconocen una constante: según como sea representada Bolivia (Potosí, La Plata, Audiencia de Los Charcas o Alto Perú) siempre figura con su territorio soberano sobre el Océano Pacífico, el departamento del Litoral.
The New York Publica Library: South America (1876) Davis, F. A. Dutchess County (N.Y.) Maps Kochersperger, H. L. W. Gray and Son (Philadelphia, Pa.)



THE COAST OF BOLIVIA

CHAPTER X.
FROM CAPE JARA TO THE RIVER LOA.

Variation from 12° 30' to 11° 03' easterli, in 1876, increasing annually about 1' 30''.

 

Bolivia borders the Pacific Ocean for about 250 miles, from cape Jara latitude 24° S. to the river Loa, in latitude 21° 28' S.; it is bounded to the NW. and N. by Perú, on the E. by Brazil and Paraguay, and to the SE. and S. by the republic of Chile; its extreme length being about 1,100 miles, with a breadth of 800 miles.
　
The coast of Bolivia is part of the desert of Atacama, which constitutes the province of that name. This province is sparsely populated, containing hardly from 6,000 to 8,000 inhabitants. The coast is generally formed of high sand dunes, leaving but a few feet of beach, which is clean and can be followed at a short distance from the land. Like the coasts of Chile and Perú, it is constantly washed by the southerly swell, and has but few coves or inlets, and those generally bad.
　
DESERT OF ATACAMA
The desert of Atacama extends from Copiapó to the river Loa, and as far as Iquique and 120 miles into the interior, to the spurs of the Cordillera of the Andes. It is barren and uninhabitable; fresh water is unknown, and it never rains; the easterly and southeasterly winds being arrested by the Andes, their snowy peaks condense all the humidity which comes across the plains of the Argentine Republic and Paraguay; and the waters which come down from the Andes are lost in the sands of the desert, which renders them salt.
　
The desert of Atacama is covered by black shifting sands, or dark brown sand varied at times by gravel and stones which are so sharp that the hunters of the guanaco have to shoe their dogs. It is probable that Bolivia was inundated to the foot of the Andes during prehistoric time, and that this part was raised with all this coast of the continent; this is proved by the numerous fossil marine shells, caracoles, and large blocks of pure sea-salt, which are found in the ravines of the inomitains; the soil itself is full of salts of lime and soda.
　
The only products which were for a long time taken from these western slopes of the Andes were nitrate of soda and guano; a few years ago, however, some very rich silverores were found in the midst of the desert at Caracoles, which is 951 feet above the sea. This place was connected with Mexillones by railroad. The port of Antofagasta was created, and the mines in this desolate part of the earth immediately became a source of strife between Perú, Chile, and Bolivia.
　
THE CLIMATE
The climate of the one hundred and fifty miles of coast of Bolivia does not need any special description after the remarks made on that of the northern provinces of Chile. Calms are very frequent, and the trade-winds take the place of local breezes.
　
The prevailing winds are from SSE. to SSW., modified by the land and sea breeze; the wind is generally light; during the night it is usually calm. There is a thick damp fog from about 9 p. m. to 10 a. m., especially during the months of March, April, and May. There is little movement of the barometer, and no gales of wind; the swell is often heavy and without warning.
　
The population of Bolivia is stated at about 1,742,352. The capital is Sucre, the ancient Chuquisaca, also called Charcas and la Plata; it has about 24,000 inhabitants.
　
DESCRIPTION
The republic of Bolivia has for a long time existed on its mines of precious metals; those of Potosi are still celebrated, but they yield less and less. The exportation is much inferior to the importation, and the country becomes poorer and poorer. The civil discords are not calculated to improve this state of affairs. The exportation, which is in the hands of foreigners, consists of guano, niter, copper, and mineral ores. The United States and Europe supply all the necessaries of life.
　
Formerly Peruvian bark was a source of wealth to Bolivia, but it has been gathered so recklessly and the forests are so impoverished that it has almost ceased to be remunerative.

CAPE JARA
Cape Jara is a steep rock, rounded on its northern side, 22 miles from el Cobre. The coast between them bas the same aspect and direction as that to the southward of the latter. In the northern part of the cape is a small but safe core, which can be used by small vessels. Vessels which are hunting the seal frequent it, and they leave their boats here to hunt in the vicinity. They are provided with fresh water, and for fuel they use the wrack which grows in abundance on the coast. No provisions are to be found for a considerable distance on either side of the point. Mount Jara, 4 miles to the eastward of the cape, is 3,986 feet high.

MORENO BAY　
Moreno bay commences 4 miles N. 19° E. of cape Jara, and extends to point Las Tetas, the SW. extremity of mount Moreno. The coast between point Jara and the commencement of Moreno bay is high and rocky, and has no remarkable feature other than the Black rock, which lies a little to seaward.
　
Moreno bay has several anchorages; it commences with Paja Brava, an inhospitable sand-coast bordered by high hills, in the center of which is the port of Antofagasta, about 13 miles from Black rock.
　

PORT OF ANTOFAGASTA
Port Antofagasta is the harbor of export for the nitrate of soda, which is found nine miles from the town, back of the first line of hills, as also of the silver-ores coming from the mines of Caracoles, 114 miles distant, in the desert of Atacama.

The anchorage is to the northward of a bank of stones  which extends to seaward for 1/3 mile. The depth is from 14 to 17 1/2 fathoms; bottom stiff blue mud, covered by sand, coral, and shell. It is 2/3 of a mile from the moles of the port.

It is necessary to anchor far enough off the bank to have saflicient room to swing with from 45 to 60 fathoms of chain when the fresh wind from SSE. changes to N. Two anchors are always necessary, and in ordinary weather an anchor astern, with the head SSW., to stem the constant swell.

The bank of stones is always washed by the swell. Oft its NW. extremity, and a short distance from it, is a rock which is only visible with a moderate sea. It is thought that the Steamer Paita touched on it, and it was necessary to beach her near the mole in the inner harbor. The bank is steep to, and has about 3 3/4 fathoms alongside.

To the eastward of this bank is a cove with 3 fathoms of water, with a channel into it 240 yards wide, full of rocks, and from 3 3/4 to 5 fathoms deep. Two rocks, with 9 to 11 feet of water over them, situated in the line of the northern mole, render it dangerous ; the channel must be used only during a calm, and never by large vessels ; vessels not drawing more than 13 feet are perfectly secure, and sheltered from the sea by the bank, and can load very easily. At the bottom of the port are two moles, parallel to each other and projecting to the NW. When the weather is at all boisterous the sea not only breaks heavily on the bank, but the entrance of the inner harbor is closed by a bar. This takes place at the change of the moon, and especially during the season of north winds, from April to July; then not even lighters can lie alongside the mole. With the exception of these four months, the wind blows from the south during the day, with the fresh land-breezse at night.
　
Between two hills to the southward of the town is a watering-place, with brackish water, wich is used for the animals; people drinks condensed sea-water.
　
Vessels bound to Antofagasta from the southward should make Jara head, then steer for the bay of the bay of Moreno, keeping 4 or 5 miles from the land. When Antofagasta bears NE. by E., a large withe anchor will be seen painted on a ridge back of the town. Continue along the land until the anchor bears E. 13° S., when steer for the anchor, and keep the lead going until the 16 fathoms, wich is the anchorage. Is is best to select a berth outside of other vessels.
　
When coming from the northward the anchor will be seen as soon as point Las Tetas is doubled; lower, and nearer the beach, the powder house also will be seen, wich is a hut covered with zinc and located above the principal street.
　
It is advisable not to attempt to enter the anchorage at the night, as the lights of the houses mislead, and there is a great danger of grounding on the bank of stones.
　
Antofagasta is a uncomfortable anchorage, owing to the constant swell. It is not sheltered, but neither wind nor swell has been experienced of sufficient strenght to cause anxiety for the safety of vessels at anchor. No supplies are to be obtained, owing to the aridity of the country.
　
RAILROAD
A line of railroad from Antofagasta to Salar del Carmen was completed in 1874.
　
CHIMBA OR BOLFIN BAY
Chimba bay [* Chimba is the name given by the natives.], 3 1/2 miles N. of Antofagasta, is to the eastward of an islet 436 yards long, running to the NW., called Oesté, Huanosa, or Bolfin; a short distance to the northward of it are some rocks. the cove is very small, but it is protected from the prevailing winds. The anchorage is 200 yards east of the N. point to the island in 7 or 8 fathoms, bottom fine sand; there are hardly more than 200 yards to swing on every side, except to the NW. The island is tolerably high, and has on it some guano, wich was at one time exported, but is has been abandoned; there are also several depots of salt. The channel between the island and the mainlandis only accesible by boats. There is no fresh water.
　
From Chimba bay to the coast trends NW., then south, forming the large bay of Jorge, bounded to the westward by mount Moreno.
　
MOUNT MORENO
Mount Moreno was formerly called Jorge. It is teh more prominent point on this part of the coast. Its summit is 4,160 feet above the level of the sea, and slopes to the south; buth to the northward it ends abruptly in barren plains. It is of a brown color, without the least sign of vegetation; its western slope is cut by a deep ravine. The SW. point of the peninsula of Moreno descends gradually from the summit of the mountain and ends in two hillocks, to wich the Spaniards gave the name of Las Tetas. This point es 22 miles N. 15° W. from cape Jara.
　
CONSTITUCION ANCHORAGE
Constitucion is a small but convenient anchorage formed by the continent on the one side and by the island Forsyth on the other. It is situated immediately under mount Moreno, about 5 miles N. of point Las Tetas. A vessel can be hauled up and careened here without beinn exposed to the heavy swell which is felt in most of the ports of this coast; landing is easy. The best anchorage is to seaward of a sandspit at the NE. point of the island, in 6 fathoms, muddy bottom. It is best to moor securely, as the sea-breeze sometimes sets in very fresh. Farther out the holding-ground is bad, and on entering, the island or weather side should not be hugged too closely; as there are numerous sunken rocks, but few of wich are indicated by sea-weed. It would be
ttom. It is best to moor securely, as the sea-breeze some- times sets in very fresh. Farther out the holding-ground is bad, and on entering, the island or weather side should not be hugged too closely, as there are numerous sunken rocks, but few of which are indicated bv sea- weed. It would be best to keep in midchannel, provided the wind admits of reaching the anchorage. There is neither wood nor water in the vicinity.
ESMERLADA ROCK
About 4 miles N. of Forsyth island, opposite a mountain 1,630 feet high, is a bank of islets and rocks, called Lagartos. It is 1 1/2 miles long, trends NNW. and SSE., and is close to the shore. About 1 1/3 miles from these islets is Esmeralda rock, covered by 9 feet water. On it there is always a heavy swell, if not breakers, at the syzygies. It was discovered by a Chilian corvette of that name. It lies under the following bearings:
Lagartos bank ........... N. 83° E.
Mount jNIcxillones .......... N. 25° E.
Mount Moreno ........... S. 380E.
The depth 30 yards from Esmeralda rock is 7 1/2 fathoms, and in the channel between Esmeralda rock and Lagartos islets there are from 8 to 12 fathoms of water.
　
POINT ANGAMOS, OR LEADING BLUFF
The chain of plateau which commences at mount Moreno is terminated 12 miles N. 2° E. of Constitucion harbor by a rugged hill called mount Jorgino. On the N. coast of this promontory is the bay of Herradura de Mexillones, a narrow branch of the sea, which makes in to the eastward but affords no shelter.
　
About 9 miles north of mount Jorgino is point Low, surrounded by sunken rocks, and 5 miles to the NE. is point Angamos, or Leading bluff, a very remarkable promontory, which, with mount Mexillones a few miles to the southward, is the best landmark for all the ports of the vicinity, but especially for Cobija. The bluflf of point Angamos is about 1,000 feet high ; it faces to the N., and as it is entirely covered with guano it resembles a cliff of chalk.
　
ABTAO ROCK
About 1/2 mile NW. of this bluflf lies an island which is connected with the point by a reef. No dangers were known outside of it until the steamer Abtao reported several rocks in the vicinity of the large island. The position of the one farthest to seaward, called Abtao, given by Captain Montt, of the Chilian navy, is 1,620 yards from the nearest land, and on the following bearings:
Point Angamos .......... S. 55° 51' E.
Mount Mexillones .......... S. 06° 51' E.
Point Baja, (low) ........... S. 34° 09' E.
Little White island, (distant 700 yards) ........... S. 10° 21' E.
　
There are 2 1/2 fathoms of water over it at low water. To clear it give it a berth of 1 mile, and do not change the coarse until point Angamos bears a little to the southward of SE. by E.
There are two other sunken rocks, one 350 yards to the southward of Abtao rock, covered by 5 fathoms of water, and the other SSB. J E., distant 415 yards, with 6 fathoms of water over it.
Abtao rock is on the line of Little White island and a large white patch which will be seen on the slope west of the Morro, bearing S. by E., and also on the line of the first elevation to the northward of mount Mexillones. The rock is not indicated by sea-
weed or eddies.
　
MOUNT MEXILLONES
Mount Mexillones is 2,630 feet high, resembles the frustum of a cone, and can be distinguished above the surrounding heights. In clear weather it is a better landmark than point Angamos, but the summits of the mountains on the coast of Bolivia are very frequently covered by thick mist, which renders Leading bluff a better mark, as it cannot be mistaken owing to its chalky appearance, it being the end of the peninsula, and the land suddenly receding to the eastward. The small chain which runs from mount Moreno to mount Mexilloues is not connected with the principal chain, and has a form resembling that of a wedge.
In 1862 some important discoveries of guano were made around the base of mount Mexillones, and since 1863 two vessels have carried from it 2,100 tons of guano to Europe. The quality is similar to that of Paquica, the best guano of Bolivia, but it is inferior to the guano of the Chinchas.
　
BAY OF MEXILLONES DE BOLIVIA
The spacious bay of Mexillones de Bolivia opens to the eastward of point Angamos; it is 8 miles wide, and is now much frequented, though there is neither wood nor water. As it borders the great desert of Atacama, its vicinity is perfectly desolate, and it is only the discovery of guano that has given it any importance.
There are two anchorages, both on the W. side of the bay; the one for guano vessels is 3 miles from point Angamos, on a line between two wooden landings, from 200 to 400 yards from the shore, in from 8 to 13 fathoms of water, bottom fine sand ; the other is near the village San Luciano. The anchorage is good in from 6 to 12 fathoms, with the flag-staff bearing S. 9° E., or the lauding S. 18° W., according to the distance of theberth from shore; vessels can, however, anchor in any part of the cove; the Lamothe Piquet was about 3/4 mile distant, in 11 fathoms.
The bay of Mexillones would be a good harbor if it was not for the depth, and the holding-grouud being but tolerable. There are in many places of 20 fathoms 600 yards from the land. Violent gusts from the southward come down from the mountains, causing vessels to drag, and it is said that the northerly swell is sometimes felt.
The village of San Luciano is in the SW. angle of thebay ; although it sprang up rapidly, it is still a miserable settlement of 500 inhabitants.
Fish and shell-fish are abundant. When distilled water is not used, it is brought from mount Moreno, but it is bad. Chile has for a long time claimed this as within her boundary.
A treaty in 1867 left the guano trade to Bolivia, on the condition that one-half of the proceeds were given to Chile; recently the boundary between Chile and Bolivia has been determined as being near Mexillones bay, mount Mexillones being cousidered in Chile. A railroad is proposed from this place to the mines of Caracoles.
　
GUALAGUALA COVE
Gualaguala cove is 12 miles N. 66° E. from point Angamos; in it there is good anchorage in 7 fathoms, bottom sand and broken shells. Vessels here take in copper-ore, which is brought to the mole by a tramway. At the end of the latter is a shute under which vessels can lie securely.
　
BAY OF COBIJA OR PUERTO LA MAR
From Gualaguala the coast runs nearly N, and there is nothing worthy of mention between Mexillones and the bay of Cobija, which is 30 miles N 24° E. from Leading bluff. The harbor is protected from south winds by the small point of Cobija, which projects about 1/2 mile to seaward, and is low and rocky but clean. The anchorage is off the town in 8 to 9 fathoms, E. by N. from the point ; bottom sand and broken shells. Four mail-steamers and four coasting-steamers belonging to the P. S. N. Company, touch here every month, making fast to a mooring-buoy which is in 9 3/4 fathoms 1/2 mile from the landing.
　
LIGTH
A light is hoisted every night on the flag-stafl on the point, visible 3 miles, but it must not be relied on.
　
DESCRIPTION
This port, from which wools and ores are shipped, has been improved during the last few years ; a quay, barracks, and custom-house have been built, and the number of vessels which visit it seem to be increasing. A mole has also been constructed, which renders landing, never very easy, somewhat less difficult; even now during a heavy swell some skill is necessary to take a boat through the narrow channel, formed by the rocks, to the mole. The large water- weeds indicate the isolated rocks. The population is about 2,400, not counting the workmen of the neighboring mines. The towns of Potosi, Chuquisaca, Tupiza, and the other towns in the south of Bolivia get their imported merchandise through this port, and as it is the only port of entry of the republic of Bolivia, vessels wishing to load or discharge in another port must touch here to obtain a license from the custom-house.
The principal articles of export are tin, copper, guano, and ingots of silver.
Good fresh water is scarce, as it never rains. Sometimes a small brook formed of the water condensed by the fog runs in a ravine to the northward of the town ; but it is so small that a pipe of the size of a rifle-barrel is large enough to lead it to the reservoir. Condensed water, of which there is always a supply, is generally used. There are some wells, bat the water is brackish and cannot be kept in barrels. Fresh provisions can always be obtained at moderate prices ; the fruit and vegetables for the inhabitants are brought from Chile and Perú.
The only means of transportation to the interior is by mules ; this prevents extension in the exportation of the ores, wools, and other produce of the country. The desert of Atacama commences on the summit of the chain back of the coast, at an elevation of 3,000 feet.
The desert extends 135 miles to the eastward, and no water is found for 90 miles. The mules cross it in three days. It takes 14 days to go to Potosi, a distance of 540 miles ; but Indians on foot, having relays, bring a message in 10 days.
It is high water, full and change, at Cobija, at 10'' ; the rise, 4.5 feet.
　
DIRECTIONS
On the slope of point Cobija is a white stone, which stands out in relief against the black rocks of the land back of it. Generally a Bolivian flag is hoisted on the signal- mast when a vessel is approaching. There is no danger in entering, as the point is steep-to, and can be passed within 200 yards.
The port, however, is not easily recognized. The hills rise directly back of the coast, forming an nninterrapted chain of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet elevation; at their base there is no mark indicating the position of the town. The white, flat rock would be a good mark, were there not another very similar a few miles to the northward. There is, fortunately, a white church on the slope of the mountain, which is an excellent landmark, which can be seen 20 miles in clear weather. It is best to make the land a few miles to the north or south, and then stand along it until the houses are seen. A sailing-vessel should always make the land to the southward of the port.
On coming from the southward. Leading bluff should be made ; when steer to make the coast about 9 miles south of Cobija, and coast along it until two islands with white sum- mits are seen off False point; they are 1| miles to. the southward of the port. The church will prevent Cobija from being confounded with Gatico.
　
COPPER COVE, OR BAY OF GATICO
Copper cove is a convenient point for loading copper-ore, as vessels can anchor at a short distance from the land. The cove can be entered easily, and is clear of danger to a short distance from the shore. The best anchorage has the following bearings: Point Cobija, open of the extremity of Rocky point, the western of the cove, S. 35° W., and the jetty S. 38° E. The depth is 14 to 18 fathoms, bottom fine black sand. The anchor must not be dropped in less than 14 1/2 fathoms.
The ores are taken in bags, on balsas, to the vessels, which are anchored near the coast; 50 tons can easily be shipped in this way in a day. All vessels wishing to load here must first obtain a permit at Cobija.
　
DIRECTIONS
There are no good marks for recognizing Copper cove; the upper part of the mountains is always covered with mist. The white church of Cobija is, however, a good guide during clear weather. When going from Cobija to Copper cove, it is best to steer N. by E., keeping about 800 yards from the coast, until the jetty is opened, then ronnd Bocky point at about500 yards, and drop the anchor as before directed.
When the church of Cobija has been recognized on com- ing from the northward, and it bears S. 21^ E., steer for it antil the huts on the south side of Copper cove are seen ; then bring the mole and an isolated house to the northward in line, bearing S. 58^ E., which will lead to the anchorage. The hnts and mole cannot be seen until 3 or 4 miles from the land. A heavy swell enters the cove, and during calms, or the light prevailing winds from SW., it is difficult for sailing-vessels to get ont ; they should not attempt it with- out their boats ahead, as they would run a risk of being drifted ashore. Huanillo cove, which is 2^ miles from the rocky and dan- Hnamuo cove. gerous cape of the same name, is 6 miles to the northward of Copper cove. The anchorage is in 15^ fathoms, bottom sand and broken shells. The mining works and furnaces are near the beach, and the metals are taken to the end of the mole by a railway. The former is furnished with a crane, under which vessels can always remain with security. A large condensing apparatus furnishes water to the works and to the people. From Huanillo cove the coast trends nearly N. 7^ E. Be- Panta b anca. tween Cobija and Algodon bay, 28 miles, there are some small bays with little depth, and generally sandy, with rocky points, with mountains from 2,000 to 3,000 feet high back of them. About 24 miles from Cobija is Punta Blanca, behind which, to the northward, is a cove in which vessels some- times load ores. Algodon bay is small, with a good depth of water ; it is Aigodon bay. sheltered from the S. by point Algodon, oft' which there is a white islet. The Beagle anchored here i mile from the land, in 11 fathoms, bottom of rock, covered with sand and broken shells. There are three places in this bay in which ores are loaded : Bella Vista, Tocopilla, and Duendas ; in their vicinity are important mines. Tocopilla, which is in the south angle of the bay, has about 800 inhabitants, and is a place of some importance. The principal mines and furnaces belong to an English company, which has constructel a wharf and tram- 276 COAST OF BOLIVIA. way to facilitate the shippiug of the metal aud the discharge of coal and merchandise. Fresh meat can be obtained at a moderate price. Although there is a spring of good fresh water in the gorge of Mamilla, 7 miles to the northward, condensed water is generally used ; there are large eondens- ers, aud they furnish the vicinity. Four coasting-steamers of P. S, N. Company stop here monthly. The spring at Mamilla is 1^ miles from the beach ; the in- habitants generally bring the water in pouches made of the skins of the seal calf, which contain from 9 to 10 gallons. Duendas is in the northern part of the bay, about 1^ miles north of Tocopilla. According to captain Gales, of the Florence Nightingale, there was a prosperous foundery at this place in 1860, the mines only being 1 or 2 miles dis- tant. A mole was constructed out to a depth of 12 feet at low tide, and, although there is always a heavy swell at full and change of the moon, and occasionally at other times, vessels can generally load or discharge. The Florence Nightingale remained here during the two worst months of the year, and, on the average, she did not lose more than one day in the week on account of the swell. There are two dangerous rocks within the limits of the anchorage of Duendas — Duendas rock, in 15 feet wat sels moor, head and stern, about 200 yards from the rocks. Point Arena is low, sandy, and bordered by rocks ; it is IG miles N. 10^ E. from cape Paqnica, near a remarkable hill ; between these x)oints is a village of fishermen. Ves- sels can anchor under x)oint Arena in 9| fathoms, bottom fine sand. The mouth of the river Loa, which is 12 miles N. 21^ E. from x)oint Arena, forms the dividing line on the coast be- tween Bolivia and Perú ; it is the eastern point of the west coast of South America. The Loa is the principal river on (bis part of the coast } it runs in a deep gorge and loses itself in the sand of the beach ; its water is bad, from run- ning through a bed of saltpeter, as also from the surround- ing copper hills. Bad as it is, the people residing on the banks have no other ; at Chacansi, in the interior, the water is tolerably good. During the summer the river is about 15 feet broad and 1 foot deep, and it runs with considerable strength to within a mile of the sea. A chapel on the north bank, half a mile from the sea, is the only remains of a once populous village. It is visited occasionally from the interior for gnano, which is abundant. Point Arena. Loa River
-----------------------------
TABLE OF CONTENTS. Advertisement I
Notice IV
CHILE.
CHAPTER I.
* Gexbral DESCRiPnoN OP Chile 26
Limita ; territorial divisiona : history ; general appearance of the country
and coasts ; prodncte ; earthquakes ; rising of the soil ; climate ; tides ;
variation; coastwise routes; routes to westward ; steamship lines ; gen-
eral commerce.
CHAPTER II.
Dercription of the coast of Chile from the gulf of PbRas to CniLoi:. . 54
Peninsula of Taytao; Chonos archipelago; Pnllnche or Wickham chan-
nel ; Gnaitecas island ; Melinka ; Moraleda channel ; Ninnalaoa chan-
nel ; estuary of Aysen ; San Rafael channel.
CHAPTER III.
Chilo£ AND its archipelago 85
Ancud or San Carlos; strait of Chacao; gulf of Ancnd; Chauques or
Changues Islands ; Desertores islands ; gulf of Coroovado.
CHAPTER IV.
Coast of the Continent opposite Chtlo£ 122
Ahtao island ; Calhnco island ; gulf of Reloncavi ; Puerto Montt or Meli-
pulli ; estuary of Reloncavi ; estuary of Comau or Leteu.
CHAPTER V.
FromChilo^ to Valdivia 154
Estuary of the Rio Maullin; anchorage of San Pedro; Condor cove; Mi-
lagro cove; port of Valdivia or Corral ; Valdivia.
CHAPTER VI.
From Valdivia to Concbpcion 189
Queule; Tolten; Mocha island; Lehu; Santa Maria island; Lota; Coro-
nel ; Talcahuano ; Concepcion ; Toni^.
CHAPTER VII.
From Concepcion to Coquimbo 2SSt
Constitucion; San Antonio Nuevo; Valparaiso; Quintero; Papudo; Pichi-
danqui : los Vilos ; Tongoy. ??
??VI TABLE OP CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
From CoQUiMBO TO THE FRONTIER OF BouviA ; capbJara253
Qayaoan; Coqaimbo; Totoratillo; Huasoo; Carrlsal Bajo ; Copiapd ; Cal-
dera ; Pan de Azacar.
CHAPTER IX.
Islands OFF THE coast of Chile 262
Jnan Fernandez ; bay of San Juan Bautista or Camberland ; Mas a Faera ;
San Ambrosio ; San Felix.
BOLIVIA.
CHAPTER X.
Description of the coast of Bolivia from cafe Jarato the ritbr Loa 277
General remarks ; Antofagasta; Mexillones; Cobija.
Perú.
ch;apter XI.
General remarks on Per6 296
Limits; aspect of thecoast and country; prodacts; guano coasts; winds;
calms; fogs; dew; tides; carrents; temperature; earthquakes; routes;
coastwise rentes.
CHAPTER XII.
Description of the coast of PERÚ from the river Loa to cape Nazoa.. . 326
Iqniqne; Guaina Pisagua; Arica; Ilo; Mollendo; Islay; Quilca; San
Jnan; San Nicolas.
CHAPTER XIII.
From CAPE Nazca to the BAY OF Casma 371
Independencia bay; Pisco; Chincba islands; Callao; Ancon; Huacho;
Hnarmey.
CHAPTER XIV.
From THE BAY OF Casma to the river Tumbez 40
Casma ; Samanco ; Guafiape islands ; Salaverry ; Hnancbaco ; Malabrlgo ;
Pacasmayo; Eten; Lobos islands; San Jos^ de Lambayeque; Paita;
Tumbez. ??
??VIEWS. ??
??I. Approaohes to Anna Pink bay 29
Coast firom Rees island to oape Ties Montes
n. Approaches to San Carlos de Anoad 69
Approaches to port Melinka from the north
m. Conoepcion Bay «...
Off Manle riyer entrance 183
IV. Approaches to Piohidanqai bay from the northward
Coqnimbobay
Gnyaoan bay 209
y. Approaches to Caldera bay from the sonth
Copiap6 bay 241
VI. Coast from Plata point to Grande point, including Paposa bay
Anchorage off Antofagista 253
Vn. Cobya bay
Coast fit>m Low point to Tetas point 273
Ym. San Felix and San Ambrosio groap
Jnan Fernandez andMasaFuera 257
IX. Coast of Perti between latitndes 22^ and 19^ S 299
X. Coast ofPertl between latitudes 19° and 17^ S 309
XL Coast of Perti between latitudes 17<3 and 16^ S 321
Xn. Coast of Perd between latitudes 16^ and 1&^ S 327
Xm. Coast of Perd between latitudes 15^ and 14<^ S 331
XIY. Coast of Perd between latitndes 14^ and 12^o 8 339
XV. Coast of Perd between latitudes 12^^ and lU^ 8 345
XVI. Coast of Perd between latitudes ll^o and 10^ S 366
XVII. Coast of Perd between latitudes 10° and 8^0 S 373
XVin. Coast of Perd between latitudes &i and 7^ S 381
XIX. Coast of Perd between latitudes 70 and 5<3 S 393 ????
??
ERRATA. ??
??
Page 6, for " coffee " read " copper."
Page 29, for " Tatayo " read " Taytao."
Page 30, for " Melcher *' read " San Melchor.''
Page 37, for « Tatayo " read " Tay tao."
Page 37, for " Yeuche Mo " read " Ynche Mo."
Page 86, for " Abato" read " Abtao."
Page 88, for " Nahnellinahi " read " Nahuelhaapi."
Page 93, for " Qnniobed " read " Qaincbed."
Page 118, for " Paohnapi " read '' Paebaapi."
Page 170, for " Fort Viel » read " Port Viel."
Page 196, for '* Tapolcama " read *' Topoloama.''
Page 199, for ** Fort San Antonio " read " Port San Antonio.^'
Page 343, for " Salzar" read *' Salazar."
Page 357, for <' Carmotal " read " Camotal.''
Plate X, for " Victor" read " Vitor."
Plate XVI, for " Legarto " read " Lagarto."??
[continúa]


https://archive.org/stream/coastschileboli00offigoog#page/n305/mode/1up